L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts, opens doors with Garden of Emeralds show

Muhammad Yusuf, Features Writer

L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts, founded in 2012 with the support of Van Cleef & Arpels, has opened doors in Dubai Design District (d3), member of TECOM Group PJSC, with an inaugural exhibition, Garden of Emeralds. The presentation explores the mysteries of the coveted gemstone and runs until April 2024, building up to the launch of L’ÉCOLE’s complete programme of in-person courses and talks in the coming Spring. The exhibition was unveiled in the presence of dignitaries, including Pierre Fayard, CEO of Richemont Middle East, India, Africa and Türkiye; Alessandro Maffi, President of Van Cleef & Arpels Middle East and India; Lise Macdonald, Global President of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts, supported by Van Cleef & Arpels; Abdulla Belhoul, CEO of TECOM Group; Khadija Al Bastaki, Senior Vice President of d3; and Sophie Claudel, Director of L’ÉCOLE Middle East, School of Jewelry Arts, supported by Van Cleef & Arpels.

L’ÉCOLE promotes jewellery culture through a bespoke programme of in-person courses and talks for beginners, collectors and connoisseurs, along with free temporary exhibitions, publications and research programmes. Its new Dubai campus is created by renowned multidisciplinary French designer and interior architect, Constance Guisset. Commenting on the opening, Al Bastaki said: “Strategic partnerships are essential to the growth of d3 and Dubai’s creative community and economy. L’ÉCOLE’s opening in our district is a result of this commitment, and it represents the growing learning opportunities and platforms available to creatives in d3, whether they are enthusiasts or professionals.

“The school will bring exceptional new creative experiences, expertise and talent to our community and region, furthering the ambitions of the Dubai Creative Economy Strategy and the Dubai Economic Agenda D33.” “We really wanted a presence in the Middle East and to one day open a L’ECOLE, School of Jewelry Arts location there,” said Macdonald. “When we were offered this building in this very exciting and vibrant neighbourhood, it was the perfect time”.  About the building, architect Guisset said that “… here, even though I’ve worked to create a soothing atmosphere that, I hope, will make you feel good, there are more contrasts, with stronger and denser colours.”

Sharp stones in their soft cradle.

L’ÉCOLE’s new presence in the UAE will mark its fourth permanent campus after Paris, Hong Kong and Shanghai. Starting Spring 2024, L’ÉCOLE will present hands-on workshops and courses led by a rotating body of lecturers, including art historians, gemologists, jewellers and craftspeople. Its courses will be open to all, from adult learners to curious children to aspiring gemologists. Enthusiasts can also look forward to monthly online talks, open to the public for free. Garden of Emeralds exhibition presents the research carried out by L’ECOLE, School of Jewelry Arts on emeralds. It aims to introduce as many people as possible to the scientific, cultural, artistic and technical aspects of the gem. The tour takes visitors from the depths of the earth, where a serendipitous union of elements gives birth to the emerald crystal, to the workshops, where it is shaped and worked by expert hands to reveal its colour, intensity and beauty. People have had a passion for the emerald for over two thousand years!Take the recent example of a collaret (jewellery worn on or near a collar), which belonged to Princess Faiza of Egypt (1923 – 1994). Her mother, Queen Nazli, had already commissioned Van Cleef & Arpels to create several diamond sets for the wedding of Princess Fawzia – Faiza’s sister – with the Shah of Iran in 1939. The collaret, created in 1929, has symmetrical motifs, volume and bichromy.

A fulfillment of the Maison’s vision of Art Deco, its platinum structure is composed of geometric patterns of alternating pave-set, brilliant-cut and baguette-cut diamonds. “Spilling from the tour de cou,” notes the catalogue, “nine emeralds enhance the neckline, while at the back, a cascade of diamonds ends in a single emerald. The gems’ generous dimensions, drop shape as well as their intense green colour, reflect the Maison’s quest for exceptional stones since its founding in 1909.” The collective weight of the piece of jewellery, over 170 carats in total, contribute to the production of a dramatic “Court jewel”, the catalogue concludes.

A section of the exhibition.

Nature, craftsmanship and symbolism form the three main sections of the show. Original gouache drawings that illustrate the range of nuances of the gem, are ably presented. The scenography of the exhibition aims to immerse visitors in the world of the emerald by playing with light in the display space, rather than baldly imitating its iconic green pigment; the idea is to allow them see the green emerge from the walls as if they were passing through the gem itself. The pearl-grey walls subtly highlight the selections, complemented by an intense and unexpected violet hue. The contrast accentuates the depth of the green and helps punctuate each of the two main given reasons for a visit: contemplation and interaction.

Dubai Design District (d3) is part of TECOM Group’s business district portfolio, including Dubai Internet City, Dubai Media City, Dubai Studio City, Dubai Production City, Dubai Knowledge Park, Dubai International Academic City, Dubai Science Park and Dubai Industrial City. d3 strives to secure Dubai’s influence in the global creative sector through flagship events, including Dubai Design Week and the official Dubai Fashion Week, helping reinforce the emirate as a UNESCO Creative City of Design.