Make-up and masks: How do we manage the two together?

Crystal Martin

As a make-up artist, Keita Moore has become an observer of faces. Months ago, in the early stages of the pandemic, he saw very little make-up when he ran out on the occasional errand. Lately, though, he has noticed that the faces are changing, slowly. Masks are plentiful, as are filled-in brows and lashes coated in mascara.

“So many people are doing this,” Moore says. “It’s fun to get dressed and get cute, even if it’s just to get groceries.”

Nick Barose, a make-up artist, was drawn to avant-garde beauty editorials of the 1980s, with images of old Hollywood stars like Marilyn Monroe. Make-up, he predicts, will take two distinct courses as the pandemic plays out. The first will be practical and edited, emphasising long-wear products and natural brows and lashes. But for some, make-up will be an escape.

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Make foundation transfer-proof

Because much of the face is covered, foundation should be used sparingly, if at all. Instead, blend concealer under the eyes and on any uneven spots above the nose. If you use foundation, a light application on the exposed areas is all you need.

“Most women choose foundation for the look,” says Keanda Snagg, a make-up artist, meaning that they’re going for colour match and finish and are usually not as concerned about performance. Now is the time to consider a formula’s staying power, too.

Erin Parsons, another make-up artist, predicts that foundation formulas will evolve to focus on skin care. “Masks will shift how we think about foundation,” Parsons says. “When you take them off, your skin is irritated and red. I keep thinking the next generation of foundation will be soothing and protecting.”

 A detailed view of makeup products.

Emphasise brows and lashes

The new basic face is filled-in brows and amplified lashes. “If there’s one thing we should learn now, it’s how to properly fill in your brows,” Moore says. Eyebrow pencils give users more control of colour density (and most people go too dark on brows), so he prefers them to powders, which can be blotchy.

“People tend to fill in too much at the inner part of the brows,” he says. “Focus on the tail because that’s where most brows are sparse. Brush your brows up and outward and fill in only where you need more hair.”

Pick a pencil with an angled flat tip. This shape helps you mimic the look and direction of hair growth.

Introduce colour with eyeliner

As our time in masks wears on, make-up artists expect we’ll transition to eye make-up that’s simple yet expressive. Eyeliner is the best tool for these times because it’s uncomplicated. A bright colour is interesting and fun without requiring the layering and dimension of eye shadow.

“My favourite is winged eyeliner in any bright colour – pink, blue, burgundy – anything that’s not black,” Snagg says.

An eyeliner newbie can start with a simple line along the lashes and, with practice, work up to a wing. Snagg’s winged liner technique: draw a triangle at the outer corner of the eye. Then, using gentle strokes, create a line that connects that triangle to the inner corner of your eye.

The Independent