Supermodels pay sizzling homage to Roberto Cavalli in vintage dresses

Milan designers dipped into neutrals and muted tones for next summer — reflecting both a conservative streak in troubled times and a move toward thoughtful production of garments that can anchor any wardrobe. Boss revamped its trademark suiting with a more relaxed, even deconstructed, vibe that can take men and women from day to after hours. Antonio Marras created joyous silhouettes that hearkened to the 1950s, an era long depicted as fun and carefree. Even Roberto Cavalli opened with white, ivory and ecru cotton dresses before exploding, inevitably, into bright hues. Here are some highlights from runway preview shows on Wednesday, the second day of Milan Fashion Week of mostly womenswear for Spring-Summer 2025:

A cadre of 1990s and 2000s supermodels, including Eva Herzigova, Joan Smalls and Alex Wek, ramped up the energy at the Roberto Cavalli show wearing vintage gowns in tribute to the late designer. During the finale, Cavalli designer Fausto Puglisi plucked Cavalli’s widow and longtime collaborator, Eva Cavalli, from the front row, and the supermodels took her in a warm embrace. Arm-in-arm, they walked backstage, wearing archival looks bearing Cavalli hallmarks: bright asymmetrical animal print gowns, deep, leg-baring slits, black leather, chiffon and feathers. “For the first fashion week without Roberto, I wanted to involve Eva to celebrate through what I consider seven iconic pieces from the archives, involving the women who most represented Cavalli’s glorious period,’’ Puglisi said backstage. Cavalli died in April at age 83. While paying homage to the Cavalli heritage, Puglisi’s runway collection aimed to push the brand to a younger generation. He already has done significant outreach in that direction by dressing Taylor Swift during the Eras tour in an ever-shifting colour combination of Cavalli bejeweled and sequined mini-skirts and bustier combos.

 Models present creations from the Roberto Cavalli Spring/Summer 2025 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, in Italy, on Wednesday. Agencies 

“Today’s woman is not the woman of 25 years ago. She is very independent, she knows when she wants to be sexy and when she wants to be covered. Above all, she doesn’t need the judgment of men,’’ Puglisi said.

The collection progressed from cotton and linen seaside dresses with cutouts and rope detailing and elaborate macrame weaves to slinky skirts and dresses in fiery sunset and volcano prints, finishing with body-hugging gowns in bright hues or covered in crystals.

Backstage, Eva Cavalli praised Puglisi for his “great work to continue our legacy.”  Boss designer Marco Falcioni is sending a message to the fashion universe: Get out of the office. “Being the Boss means taking time off to rest. Resting is the ultimate luxury,’’ Falcioni, senior vice president of creative direction at the German brand, said backstage. To encourage a better work-life balance in a frenetic world, Falcioni has relaxed the business suit, subtracting shoulder pads and jacket linings, and layering generously, for a less button-down vibe.

Associated Press