A scene from DFW Day 1.

Muhammad Yusuf, Features Writer

September 1 marked the spectacular start to Dubai Fashion Week’s (DFW) Spring/Summer 2025 edition. Rizman Ruzaini set the stage with an electrifying presentation of their latest collection, followed by Erick Bendana’s celebration of Nicaraguan culture and Angelo Estera’s impressive DFW debut. The Italian Trade Agency’s (ITA) ‘La Moda Italiana: Dubai Chapter’ exhibition also opened its debut show to the public. DFW, hailed as the region’s definitive fashion fixture, runs all week till September 7. The event is co-founded by Dubai Design District (d3), part of TECOM Group PJSC, and the Arab Fashion Council.

Malaysian design duo to the stars, Rizman Ruzaini, opened DFW with their SS25 collection ‘Mustika’, inspired by the 1999 film “Perempuan Melayu Terakhir” (“The Last Malay Woman”). The collection pays homage to Malaysia’s rich cultural heritage, with the kebaya a central piece, symbolising tradition and elegance. Creative Director Ruzaini Jamil drew inspiration from a photograph of his late grandmother, Tok Puteh Surin, sparking a nostalgic journey reviving 1950s elegance. The collection also highlights traditional batik motifs, translated into modern designs with intricate embroidery and tambour beading, showcasing Rizman Ruzaini’s dedication to preserving and evolving Malaysia’s sartorial heritage on the global stage. The brand, founded in 2005, is committed to putting Malaysia on the world fashion map, focusing on sustainability and expansion into new markets.

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Libyan designer Amjad Khalil, regarded as one of the pioneers of the fashion industry in North Africa, showcased his ‘Beyond Black’ haute couture collection. Each piece displayed on the runway represented a chapter of experiences, with every dress embodying a specific mood he has encountered. Erick Bendana presented his ‘505’ collection, masterfully merging cultural identity with an urban chic aesthetic. Drawing inspiration from his Nicaraguan roots, the collection showcased prints celebrating traditional dances and symbols, infusing the runway with a rich sense of Nicaraguan heritage. The presentation culminated in breathtaking evening and bridal gowns, capturing the romantic elegance that defines the Erick Bendana brand.

Renowned Filipino fashion designer Angelo Estera made his grand debut at DFW. His Spring/Summer 2025 collection, inspired by his travels from the Oriental Far East to the Arabian Sahara, was a beautiful fusion of Eastern and Arabian influences, offering visitors a window to a captivating blend of culture and elegance. ITA’s debut showcased the excellence of 25 Italian fashion brands across clothing, footwear, leather goods and eyewear. The event, the first-of-its-kind in the UAE, highlighted the strong and growing cultural and economic ties between Italy and the UAE. The launch is considered a significant addition to DFW’s SS25 calendar.

 Erick Bendana celebrates Nicaraguan culture. Right: Rizman Ruzaini fashion on the catwalk.

The first three days of DFW focus on haute couture collections, having started with the designer duo to the stars Rizman Ruzaini on the opening day, to be followed by exclusive presentations from renowned Spanish designer Adolfo Dominguez on September 2 and homegrown and d3-based fashion icon Mrs Keepa, on September 3. Masterminded by French Egyptian designer Mariam Yeya, known for her avant-garde approach to fashion and innovative storytelling, Mrs. Keepa will present the brand’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Need Therapy, with an exclusive short film. Premiering in collaboration with VOX Cinemas, the movie highlights the often-ignored realities we face in everyday life, reminding the audience that they are not alone in their journey.

The spotlight will then shift to ready-to-wear collections by over 30 brands from France, India, Indonesia, Italy, Kuwait, Lebanon, Libya, Malaysia, Palestine, Russia, the United Arab Emirates, and the United Kingdom, including DFW members, and new international and regional names. On September 6, world-famous Italian fashion house Roberto Cavalli will close the Spring/Summer 2025 runway sessions with a luxury collection exclusively edited for DFW. The final day focuses on private appointments and a buyers’ market, providing an intimate setting for industry professionals to connect and collaborate. 

Now in its third edition, Thread Talks 3.0 brings together some of the most influential industry voices to discuss the future of fashion locally, regionally and globally. Scheduled for September 4, this season’s panel discussion results from a collaboration between Meta, the parent company of Facebook and Instagram, and DFW. Thread Talks 3.0 dives into the challenges and opportunities emerging in the industry with inputs from thought leaders and buyers. DFW also extends its immersive fashion experience beyond the runway, with brands organising private dinners for media and industry leaders. Highlights include, besides dinners, a buyers’ lunch hosted by d3, an exclusive collection reveal and dinner by Bil Arabi, a private event by Swarovski, an industry roundtable hosted by Instagram, and a closing celebration hosted by Kiko Milano at The One and Only. The occasions will provide networking opportunities and incentivise a better connection to the fashion world.

Joining DFW’s list of sponsors, Persil demonstrates a commitment to sustainability with the relaunch of Persil Shampoo. It represents the new era where fashion meets responsible consumption, aligning with DFW’s focus on enabling sustainable fashion. Dyson is the official hair technology partner, Kiko Milano is the official make-up partner, ME Dubai is the official hospitality partner, and Lavazza is the official coffee partner. ITA is DFW’s main trade partner, and Meta is its main media partner. Electra and Magnum are production and audio-visual partners, respectively. Additional support comes from OHVU for management services, Fiji Water the hydration partner, Joe & the Juice for catering, and Etcetera for backup management services.