Models wear creation as part of the Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2025 collection.

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior collection took a sporty turn, blending athletic prowess with an urban menace on Tuesday. The Paris show’s stripped-down designs evoked a 60s sci-fi aesthetic, reminiscent of Star Trek, but with an edge-daring, asymmetrical shapes paired with knee-high boots that flirted with danger.  As a live archer launched arrows into a target mid-show, VIPs such as Natalie Portman and French First Lady Brigitte Macron erupted in applause, heightening the collection’s drama.   Chiuri’s intent was clear from the start: a nod to the power and autonomy of the female form. With a clear reference to Christian Dior’s iconic Amazone dress from the early 1950s, Chiuri reinterpreted the silhouette with sleek, athletic lines. It echoed the spirit of the recent Paris Olympics, as models walked in skin-tight black tops with geometric cut-outs, circular cutaway patterns, and lace-up boot sneakers. There was a dynamic tension between freedom of movement and structured control — a recurring theme in Chiuri’s work, which often explores the balance between comfort and couture.

Dualities were evident in the collection’s black-and-white palette, a nod to the iconic Miss Dior logo, stretched to graphic extremes. The monochrome bombers — some accented with bright red details — projected a combat-ready urban vibe, while an all-white tuxedo with dangerously sharp fastenings evoked a touch of Hannibal Lecter menace.

  Models wear creation as part of the Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented on Tuesday, in Paris. Agencies  

Metallic accents, from shimmering embroidery to butterfly motifs, punctuated the otherwise severe palette, adding a touch of delicacy to the sharpness of the designs. Lightweight evening dresses in jersey, enhanced with shiny embellishments, underscored Chiuri’s ongoing quest to marry elegance with ease — an ethos that has defined her tenure at Dior. Yet, for all its urban grit, the show wasn’t without its moments of softer, playful contrast. Breton-striped swimwear offered a surprising, and ultimately incongruous, interlude in an otherwise aggressive, urban lineup. This attempt to balance Dior’s classic femininity with a gritty, youth-oriented aesthetic felt sometimes forced.

The contrast between the house’s refined heritage and the try-hard urban appeal at times seemed as if the collection were straining to capture a younger audience at the expense of its core identity. Chiuri’s latest offering, much like her past work, refuses to adhere to a singular theme. Asymmetry, athleticism, and autonomy were at this collection’s heart. One of the most notable moments of Dior’s show came from a live performance by an artist called SAGG Napoli, who incorporates archery into her work.

Positioned in a sealed tunnel at the centre of the runway, the artist with rippling shoulder muscles used a high-tech bow to shoot arrows, symbolizing the harmony between body and mind.

Associated Press